Serves 4.

Fennel-Olive Relish:
1 bulb Red Dog fennel, cored and finely diced (about 1 cup)
10 large green olives, chopped (1/2 cup)
1/4 cup finely diced red onion
1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 dried chile de arbol, stemmed and crumbled
Coarse salt, to taste

Grilled Salmon:
Vegetable oil, for brushing
1 side wild salmon, skin on (about 1 1/2 pounds and 1 inch thick)
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1 lemon, cut into rounds
Fennel fronds (optional)

Combine all relish ingredients in a bowl and set aside.

Heat grill to medium; brush grates with vegetable oil. Drizzle both sides of salmon with olive oil; season with salt and pepper. Place salmon on grill, skin-side down, and cover. Grill, without moving fish, until just opaque in center and skin is crisp, 7 to 9 minutes. Using 2 spatulas, transfer fish to a platter. Drizzle lemon rounds with olive oil; grill until lightly charred, about 2 minutes a side. Transfer to platter; sprinkle with fennel fronds and serve with the relish.